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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.